The Atlas


3 Dec


I  think Cannes is the place to plonk down some dough.  Far more beautiful out of season than in, it has one of the world’s most gorgeous bays that can be enjoyed even in the dead of winter when temps are a mild 50 degrees.  Sparkling with as much natural energy as a string of Christmas tree lights or a Vuitton beaded shift, the wide graceful...

24 Oct

Meditations #40

Shetland ponies, round bellied and compact, have wild manes and gentle souls.  They are beautifully adapted to the rugged, spare landscapes of Scotland’s edge-of-the-world islands. Islay, queen of the Hebrides, produces princely whiskies – Laphroaig, Ardbeg and Bruichladich among them.  They, too, reflect the environment with a peaty,...

1 Oct

Copenhagen’s Torvehallerne Market

Manfred’s and Restaurant Relae, owned by Noma alums and located in the hip Norrebro neighborhood, attract serious foodies looking for more of a local atmosphere, but the real deal these days is Copenhagen’s new Torvehallerne market. Just one year old, Torvehallerne is an upscale covered market in Israels Plads, the first of its kind in...

26 Aug


Copenhagen is quietly cool.  It has always been the fresh faced capital of northern  Europe – betwixt in between Scandinavia’s Sweden and Norway and the more southerly Netherlands and Belgium. But perhaps it is not so quiet anymore.  Here are the best of Copenhagen’s really great finds: Hotel:  Nimb Restaurants: Noma, Geranium,...

10 Aug

Maca Kizi

There are these places – sexy, vibey, relaxed, stylish – that crop up the world over like distant cousins with a family resemblance.  Summer, beachy ones can be found on Capri, the Mexican Riviera, Uruguay’s Atlantic seabord, Brazil’s Bahia. And also on Turkey’s gorgeous coast in Turkbuku, Maca Kizi is just steps from...

3 Aug

Meditations #37

“It is alpine meadows that I dream of….” “I’ll take you there.” “I am too old.  I cannot manage.  The time passed without my realizing.” Travel Now

21 Jul

Eolo: Moonlight in Burano

Mauro Stoppa, captain of Eolo, one of the few remaining bragozzo in Venice, is a charming character.  Captain, guide and chef, Mauro will take you through the Venetian Lagoon on his traditional boat, stopping at lesser known islands, pausing for an hour of fishing and a delicious grilled fish lunch, even overnighting in the lagoon, an experience guaranteed...

27 Jun

Home in Istanbul

Istanbul is one of the great cities and one to which travelers with diverse interests are drawn.  There is certainly the romance and history, the architecture, the Grand Souk.  But there is also the cuisine, fresh fish served simply at  outdoor cafes in leafy neighborhoods, food stalls buzzing into the night and morning markets piled high with fresh...

31 May

Ballyfin Demesne

Located just over an hour west of Dublin, Ballyfin is a spectacular Regency mansion that has been lovingly handled.   After 8 years of painstaking renovation, it opened as a country house hotel in 2011 with only 15 rooms.  Situated on a 600 acre estate, it offers a lake for boating, ancient woods, grottoes, follies and landscaping that was laid out...

18 May

A Perfect Marriage

There is a venerable factory in France that produces, to my taste, the perfect white ceramic plate, bowl, pitcher, vase.  The glaze is imperfect, the lines simple or fanciful.  To borrow the Japanese concept, Astier de Villatte reflects the philosophy of wabi sabi.  If my life could reflect Astier’s ceramics in all of its aspects, I think...

17 Feb

Three Chimneys

Located in a bit of Scottish paradise on the shores of Loch Dunvegan in the Isle of Skye, The Three Chimneys is one of those sweet spots to dream on.  Privacy is key here, the food amazing, and the six romantic rooms in the next-door crofter’s cottage, The House Over-By, are incredibly romantic.  And the views over the open sea are an escape...

7 Nov

San Lorenzo Mountain Lodge

I have just returned from an annual travel conference which affords a selective group of travel designers to connect with an equally interesting array of travel providers of hotels, camps, cruises and journeys.  I pride myself on staying up to date with new resources – newly opened camps, refurbished lodges and hotels, repurposed private houses,...

31 Oct

Riad Joya

There are scores of 5 star hotels in Marrakech and more arriving on the scene every year.  There are thousands of riads, tucked away in the Medina, whose aesthetic, service and price point range from hostel to the pinnacle of style and sophistication.  The vast majority of these reinterpret the Moroccan look, sometimes with great effect.  Personally,...

10 Oct

Coworth Park

I am told that Coworth Park’s main house once belonged to the Sheriff of Nottingham, that legendary figure who was tasked with capturing Robin Hood. He lived nicely in this pretty building which now is the site for reception to the lovely country house hotel, Coworth Park, 30 divinely comfortable rooms and suites,  the acclaimed restaurant of...

5 Oct


I have recently returned from an intriguing long weekend in Bulgaria, a country with diverse landscapes, deep history, magnificent treasures, and a challenging future to grapple with.  Just a short 2.5 hour flight from London, the purpose of the weekend hop was to visit a lovely house, Villa Gella, located in the alpine scenery...

10 Sep

Les Maisons Marines d’Huchet

I have a bucket list of places that I want to see, and Huchet has been right up there since I first came across photos of it.  It has that wonderful combination of stylish simplicity;  all too few places in the world can marry opposites as well (our beloved Garzon is another such example). Les Maisons Marines d’Huchet is composed of the main...

8 Sep

Bordeaux: UNESCO World Heritage Site

Thanks to the unity of its urban and architectural expression, both classical and neoclassical and unchanged stylistically over the last two centuries, Bordeaux is a gem that has finally been internationally recognized. An urban project, launched in 1996 and entailing the cleaning of façades, the development of the quays along the Garonne river,...

7 Sep

Gardens of Life: Eugenie-Les-Bains

There is a classic in the Southwest of France, 1. 5 hours from the renewed city of Bordeaux, an hour from Pau at the foot of the Pyrenees and another hour or so from the Atlantic Ocean and the great summer beaches of Biarritz, St. Jean de Luz and more.  For centuries, Eugenie-les-Bains has been drawing seekers of health to its sulphur-rich thermal...

1 Jun


It’s been a while since I’ve been in Stockholm, and it is very much on my “to go” list for this year.  When  I do go, I will check in to the attractive Nobis Hotel and will eat at Frantzen/Lindeberg which, I am told, is a wonderful experience.  The food is excellent, says my friend who dined there this week, but it is their...

24 May

Meditations #23

Food is one of travel’s most seductive pleasures. A good cook finds the voice in the ingredients he uses, a voice that echoes their particular landscape and season. Food tells the story of place and time better than anything else.

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