Here is my Lamu cheat sheet –
Overview: While many now opt for an end to their safari in a private house in the blander Watamu or Malindi on Kenya’s southerly coast, there is nothing quite like Lamu. The most northerly outpost of the important Swahili people, whose geographical and cultural roots can be traced back thousands of years and across a third of the globe to China, Yemen, Oman and India, Lamu has a spirit, aesthetic and ethos that is unique. This island offers more than lovely water and beaches; it presents a vibrant people and their way of life and asks – no insists – that you engage. And so you come away from Lamu not just washed with sea water, sun, fresh crab, fragrant jasmine and the distant call to prayer, but you leave revived with new friendships and a mental slideshow of unforgettable images.
Where to Stay: Must stay in Shella, the southern end of Lamu island. On Manda the only option is the Manda Bay Hotel although I would certainly combine this with a stay on Lamu.
Best Hotel: Peponi is still the first choice. Opt for the new second floor apartments which are lovely.
Private House: There are many lovely houses to rent at all price points and different room combinations. Forodhani is one. Honeymoon House, owned by director Chris Henley, is one of the most glamorous. Be careful. management and staff are of key importance in a rental.
Best Restaurant: Peponi’s food is good for lunch or dinner. Manda Beach Club serves up delicious fresh grilled fish and chicken on the Manda beach facing Lamu. In Lamu town, lunch at Lamu House.
Best Oysters: on the jetty in front of Forodhani House.
Best Samosa: Anyone who sells them
Best Kikois: Abdul at Aalyshah Designs in Shella.
Best Chic Shop: Aman in Shella
Best Local Art: Ali Lamu
Best Jewelry: Magik Grace, Lamu Town
Best Furniture: Omar, Lamu Town
Best Jehazi Boatman: Nasir, boatman of LALETI, Shella/Lamu Town
Best Mozambique Dhow Boatman: Omar and Habib, boatmen of NAOMI, Shella
Best Dog; Gumbo at Peponi’s
Best Kangas: Found in the freezer in the back of an unlit duka whose name is a tight lipped secret of mine.
Cape Town is one of the world's great cities. The setting alone is worthy of top billing. And then you have a vibrant culinary scene, a fascinating flora and fauna representative of its microclimate, a diverse population and the logistical advantage that makes it a gateway for visits to the wine lands, to the garden route and north into the bush. In spite of the aforementioned, what makes me vibrate with anticipation in Cape Town is its flourishing art and design scene, its world class museums and galleries, its artisans, many of them passionately committed to ensuring that hand and design skills endure. The person who knows as much about this sector of the Capetonian landscape is Marion Ellis whose company, Cape Insights, designs whole or partial itineraries that feature - among other subject matter - the flourishing arts of the city. Marion's knowledge has both the breadth and depth to take you on a meandering journey across the media - from paintings and ceramics to photography and art installations - and behind the scenes to meet with collectors and artists, teachers and innovators."
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