Introduction
Like the Camino de Santiago, the Inca Trail, the Appalachian Trail, the Transcaucasian Trail, the Milford Track, the Sunshine Coast Trail, The Red Sea Trail, and so many others, we want this walking journey to provide the insight that comes from time spent in solitude, with nature as your companion.
Japan’s Kumano Kodo, a network of pilgrimage trails through the southern Kansai region, is the only pilgrimage route aside from the Camino de Santiago to be designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
These pilgrimage routes, in use for over 1000 years, were developed as a means for people to move between the sacred areas of the Kii Peninsula. At the center of this religious region are the three Kumano shrines: Hongu Taisha, Hayatama Taisha and Nachi Taisha, collectively known as Kumano Sanzan. By the 12th century, the Kumano Sanzan were well-known shrines in Japan, drawing pilgrims from Kyoto, Osaka and beyond. More than just a means to reach the three shrines, the pilgrimage trails were designed to be a religious experience in themselves, often testing patience, stoicism and endurance as the pilgrim passed through difficult, even dangerous, mountain terrain.
The journey and the destination became one.
Logistics
The Nakahechi, or Imperial route, in total a 72-mile journey, encompasses a boat ride down the Kumano-gawa River and visits all three Shinto shrines, an exercise demanding various degrees of strenuousness.
There is a 42-mile version dotted with more than 100 Shinto and Buddhist shrines, that traverses the secluded Kii peninsula through sleepy farm towns and forests of cedar, cypress, and bamboo, over mountain passes, across rivers, and past waterfalls. While there are sections that are very vertical (the Japanese pilgrim did not subscribe to the zigzag method of climbing a mountain), it is easier than the longer walk.
The journey can take from two to six days depending on the route and can be cut short after the easier first two or three. The trail ends with a descent into Hongu Taisha, offering a spectacular view of the shrine’s massive torii gate.
Along the way there are numerous villages that offer the pilgrim minshuku (guest houses) and ryokan complete with delicious locally sourced meals and the evening Japanese bath to soothe aches and pains.
Your Guide
We have the choice of two superb hiking guides to join you or you can make the journey on your own. If on your own, your luggage will be transported along the route for you.
When to Go
Spring and fall are going to offer the most comfortable temperatures as well as beautiful blossoms and fall foliage. That said, these are the most popular times of the year to make the hike, so you’ll encounter more people along the trail.
Spring Cherry blossoms and comfortable temperatures make springtime a lovely (and popular!) time to make this hike!
Summer The summer months can get very hot and humid, meaning the hike can be uncomfortable at times. Rain is also highly likely, at least for part of your trek, so be prepared. The good thing is that it will be very green at this time!
Fall Comfortable temperatures and stunning fall foliage make this a very nice time to hike, and for this reason, it is a popular season on the Kumano Kodo.
Winter While temperatures can get cold and snow is possible, the Kii Mountains tend to be more temperate than other mountain ranges in Japan. There will be fewer people hiking in Japan in the winter than at other times of the year.
No matter what time of year you plan to hike, be prepared for rain, as the weather in the mountains can change quickly and can be quite different from the weather in surrounding cities.
The Promise
Perhaps the most enriching part of walking on a trail is to experience a great leveling of minds and to have the time to look for the beauty within yourself as well as in the world around you.
And After?
I would pop up to Amanemu on the Izu Peninsula, explore the Bay of Pearls, eat a memorable home-cooked lunch with a lady pearl diver, and luxuriate in Aman’s blissful onsen and spa offerings.