Iceland

For Everett & Anna

July 2015.

Volcanic Isle of fire and ice

Dear Everett & Anna,

A perfectly sized island lost in the icy Atlantic can make any traveler’s dream come true. Perhaps your dreams include chasing the Northern Lights among a surreal, volcanic landscape where the air is pure and pollution free. Or maybe they involve jumping into a robust super jeep to journey across ancient glaciers and majestic craters, with stops to take photographs of thundering waterfalls and steaming geysers. For a bird’s eye view, consider taking a flight to explore the otherworldly topography of Iceland by private helicopter and then landing at a restaurant, lost in the rugged hinterland, to feast upon humar, succulent local lobster. Between curling up at fashionable design hotels in eclectic Reykjavik, where you will get a taste of Nordic lifestyle at its finest, to bedding down at mobile camps built on ice blue glaciers while on a luxury expedition through the Arctic wilderness, you will be able to experience first-hand the unearthly extremes of this island of “fire and ice.”

Day 1: Landing…Inside a volcano

After being met at Keflavik Airport, you will immediately, and quite literally, be plunged into Iceland’s “fiery” side when your guide Uma takes you to Thrihnukagigur volcano, “baptizing” you with a journey of a lifetime towards the Earth’s very heart. Consisting of three prominent craters, Thrihnukagigur is a landmark volcano that has been dormant for over 4,000 years. You will admire it at length during a moderate hike to the volcano where, after gearing up, you will descend 200 meters to the bottom of one of the craters, an immense underground cavern whose soaring dimensions and unusual hues are truly wondrous. The volcano’s heart is the magma chamber. Thrihnukagigur’s chamber is unique because the fiery magma mysteriously has disappeared, making it the only one in the world that you can actually wander through.

Back up on the surface, you will have ample time to settle in and contemplate the depths of your experience amidst the plush comfort of your intimate lodgings at the private river villa you requested. Aside from the distinctive charm and personality of the house itself, you will find great respite amidst the wild, yet bucolic natural surroundings. The villa sits on the banks of the Ranga River, which happens to be Iceland’s premier salmon fishing river. As mentioned earlier, at any point during your stay, a fishing outing can be easily arranged. Just as satisfying as catching your own fresh fish is having it prepared for you – in delicious local-style – for dinner.

Day 2. Rapids, geysers, and farms

You will begin your first full day in Iceland with a scenic drive through the remote and rugged countryside to Thingvellir, a national park that pays homage to Iceland’s long history and is a testament to its national identity. Here, by the shores of the River Öxará lies Þingvellir—literally “Parliament Plains”—which marks the site of the original Althing, the founding place of the oldest democratic parliament in the world. The surrounding nature is breathtaking, particularly the spectacular lava formations, which you can explore on foot with your guide. This journey will allow you traverse around the indigo waters of Lake Thingvallavatn, Iceland’s largest lake. Amazingly, this is also the only place in the world where you can actually see the tectonic plates drift apart – a sight that will leave you feeling as if you’ve been privy to the Earth’s deep and secret inner workings. Happily, your visit will coincide with Icelandic autumn, allowing you to marvel at the changing pastel patchwork of birches, willows, and plants of the heath.

Recalling your enthusiasm for water sports, I have made plans for you to enjoy an adrenaline-filled afternoon of rafting along the Hvita River. While roaring down the crashing rapids of this glacier river, you will be awed by the sheer rock canyons on either side, many of whose formations resemble primitive sculptures. Aside from the drenching dazzle of the Gullfoss waterfalls, you can top off your day of aquatic offerings by visiting nearby Strokkur, the “geyser” that became the name for all the island’s erupting hot springs. One of the most active geysers in the region, the sight of Strokkur’s tower of spray thrusting 90 feet up towards the sky is an invigorating vision you won’t soon forget.

You expressed that you were eager to have an authentic experience in the company of Icelanders. I strongly agree that interacting with local people is an essential aspect of travel and, with this in mind, I have arranged for you to spend an evening with a welcoming and very interesting local farming family. Their twin passions are producing the world’s best tomatoes—achieved through the perfection of cutting-edge greenhouses—and raising lovely, prize-winning Icelandic horses, which compete in horse shows. After this special encounter, you will be free to unwind in front of a hot fire, or in a hot bath, at your cozy villa.

Day 3: Black sand beaches

In order to explore the dramatic East Coast without rushing, your morning will begin early with a leisurely drive along the south shore to Reynisfjara. Along the way, you will stop at a pair of enchanting waterfalls; you can walk behind one and hike above the other. Continuing along the coast, you will be amazed by the arresting vision of jet black sand beaches, one of which is lined by an extraordinary volcanic rock formation. If the winds are favorable, I recommend you rent gear and paraglide down from the summit to the dusky beach, a truly heart-stirring flight.

Further down the coast, you will arrive at Solheimajokull glacier tongue, which extends down from its mother glacier, Myrdalsjokull, and calves into a lagoon that empties into the Atlantic. Rising to 1,480 meters, Myrdalsjokull is Iceland’s fourth largest glacier with an area of about 590 km². It rests on a volcanically active massif mountain, whose last spectacular eruption occurred in 1918. Aware of how much you both enjoy unique outdoor adventures, I have arranged for you to take an ice walk across the glacier’s uncanny terrain. After donning some crampons, you will set foot on an ice field where a wonderland of ice sculptures, craggy ridges, and deep crevasses await you. You will find the sensation of navigating a 200-meter-thick layer of ice created over thousands of years to be a fantastic, and humbling, experience.

As Anna mentioned she enjoyed horseback riding, in the late afternoon you may wish to take a shorter ice walk and then go riding on the famous Icelandic five-gaited horses that have been an integral part of Icelanders’ life since the Viking age. This gait, known as a Tölt, is extremely fluid and natural, as at least one of the horse’s feet always touches the ground. Although the sensation may feel strange at first, many claim the ride is so smooth that it feels as if you’re sitting at home on a sofa.

After this day replete with discoveries, you can spend the evening at “home,” relaxing at your river villa. Of course, should you be in the mood for some culinary nurturing after so much nature, I can happily recommend one of Reykjavik’s fine contemporary restaurants, where you can savor some cutting-edge Nordic cuisine.

Day 4: Hiking through Thorsmork

After a day of coastal contemplation, it’s time to board a super jeep and head inland, far off the beaten track. One of the most savagely beautiful areas of the country, Thorsmork, named after the Norse god Thor, is surrounded by weathered mountains that contain immense glaciers, rushing rivers and delicate woods. Due to its remote location, the area can only be reached by mountain vehicle. The wild landscape consists of a multitude of gullies and valleys, blanketed with low-lying birches, and offers endless possibilities for nature lovers. Particularly impressive are the outlet glaciers that tumble and crawl down into the gullies, some of them spilling into glistening glacial lagoons. On the way to Thorsmork, you will have to cross rivers formed by glacial melting. Some days the crossings can be quite challenging; in a matter of hours, an innocent stream can change to a thunderous torrent. One of the most exhilarating of the many hikes available is a light walk along the narrow gorge of Stakkholtsgja, whose sheer rock walls are carpeted in green mosses and ferns. The musical accompaniment of running water is constant and the surroundings are truly mystical. I’m certain that you will emerge from this experience refreshed, and revitalized.

Everett, since you confessed that you’re a fishing aficionado, after a traditional Icelandic barbecue lunch, instead of tackling another hike, you will enjoy an afternoon of fly fishing. Teeming with wild trout, Tungufljot River has everything to offer the fly fisherman—long, slow-moving flats, waterfalls, fast streams, and many islands. The exuberant flora along the riverbanks is magnificent. Of course, you can also opt to fish “at home” on the Ranga River, where salmon is abundant. In either case, you will end the day on a happy and healthy note, dining in authentic style upon your freshly grilled catch of the day.

Day 6: Landmannalaugar’s lunar landscapes

Following a day of “ice,” it’s back to “fire” on a journey to the Fjallabak Nature Reserve. As befits an active volcanic zone, the landscapes you will encounter are dramatically stark, majestic, and lunar. Centuries of geothermal activity have left their mark on the roughhewn mountains and valleys lined with rocks whose mineral composition has caused them to take on startling color variations—greens, reds, yellows, and oranges—a natural tapestry that contrasts remarkably with the looming black ridges.

Landmannalaugar is a particularly enchanting spot, unlike anywhere else on this planet. After hiking past pristine rivers, jagged mountains, smoking craters and lava fields, you can soak up the otherworldly atmosphere—and waters—by surrendering your bodies and senses to a steamy hot bath in a natural spring. This idyllic closure to your last full day in Iceland will be all the more memorable when you head to Reykjavik, where, as per your wishes, I have made reservations for a romantic farewell dinner at one of the city’s most enchanting, and most well-reputed, restaurants.

Day 7: Whale watching and departure

I know that you were both eager to do some whale watching while in Iceland, considered one of the best places in the world to enjoy this unique maritime experience. Since your flight home doesn’t depart until the evening, I have arranged a very special final day’s expedition. In the morning, you will board a customized boat and head out on the North Atlantic waves in search of the more than 20 species of whales and dolphins that inhabit these icy, blue waters. Chances of coming into close contact with these seemingly mythical marine mammals are very high. You’re likely to encounter and even get thrillingly close to minke whales, white-beaked dolphins, and porpoises along with humpback, orca, fin, sei, and blue whales.

Capping off a week of journeys amidst some of the most majestic and untouched scenery on the planet, I feel certain that this last outing will leave you reinvigorated and renewed, with a lingering sense of wonder at Iceland’s uniquely monumental and abundant northern Nature.

Please don’t hesitate to contact me if I can help you any further with your itinerary.