It’s too bad, in terms of trying to express the full impact that Trasierra has on its guests, that we are not yet able to release the scent of a place.  Trasierra, a 20-room hotel that is more like a private home located in the Sierras one hour from Seville, ensnares you on so many levels.  But its perfume – a mix of jasmine and rose and lavender and baked earth – is the first of its charms that hits you.  The bird song, of course, is the next for they are in heaven in this place dripping with flowers (don’t forget that this is also that magical time in southern Spain, the Spring, that brings flamenco and flowers in to the open).  And then there is the aesthetic charm of the architecture and decor, all built over the last 30 plus years by Charlotte Scott and her four children.  Charlotte, once an interior designer in London, has had a love affair with this ruined hamlet of a place that she found, bought and slowly rebuilt while raising her family and, eventually, hosting guests.

A full-fledged hotel – Tatler has called it one of the 101 best in the world – it’s rooms are clustered in what were the stables or the pig stye or some other out building, all joined by stone paths edged in jasmine or lavender.  Still retaining the feel of a hamlet, you can lose yourself at one of the swimming pools or in one of the great rooms, glass of wine in hand, head buried deep in a book.  Play tennis or hike in the surrounding hills, drop in  to the yoga class held every evening at 7:30 or have a massage on your individual terrace.  One thing you won’t want to miss is meal time – 2:30 or so for lunch and 9:30 for dinner (or frankly, as this is the anti hotel, served at any time you want and anywhere you want) – for the food is stunningly good.  In fact the food is unsurpassed.  Everything (barring the fish which is brought from Seville) is local and all of the veg and fruits are grown organically in the Trasierra gardens.  Salads abound with fresh peas, mint and goat cheese, rice dishes, meatballs light as a feather, pear tart that melts in the mouth.  Wines and liquors and fresh lemonade are always on ice somewhere to be self served or, if you prefer, to be brought to you by one of the charming staff who are virtually invisible until you suddenly decide you want something and then, magically, they are there.

Come for a weekend and stay a week. Come for a rest or recuperation.  Come with your extended family for a celebratory birthday and take over the whole of Trasierra, knowing that you will have a home of your own deep in the Andalucian countryside that comes with easy comfort, superb service, divine food, and – oh yes – that perfume!

http://trasierra.eu/