We arrived in Tulum after having passed through the charming town of Valledolid and skirting Coba, a mystical archaeological site that is still partially hidden in the dense jungle of Yucatan.  I have been to Tulum before – many years ago and more recently too – and, like everything else, it has changed.  But there is a buzz about Tulum, a kind of cool, funky relaxedness that reminds me of Bali.  Or perhaps it is the thick vegetation that crowds in on the narrow sea-fronting road out of which private houses, compounds, bed&breakfast joints, resorts and other assorted palapa structures peek.  I was headed for one alone – Coqui Coqui – a 5-room guest house, hotel, abode, that I have been reading about for years.  Owned by the same couple who create the perfumes we delighted in in Merida (he an Argentine and she an Italian), we pitched up and settled in to our aerie that, facing both jungle and the sea, offered welcome breezes.  Lovely.

Coqui Coqui is stylish in a Balinese way…double daybeds, white linen curtains, driftwood, shadow and light.  Greeted with a bag of their own products – mosy repellent (there is no a/c), colognes and soaps and shampoo – and the charm of an Argentine staff of young, I was right at home.  Food was creative, simple and fresh and my pre dinner massage was fantastic up under the palapa rafters and long slanting rays of the setting sun.