Bhutan

For Jade

October 2012.

A beautiful adventure

Dear Jade,

The tiny Buddhist Kingdom of Bhutan lies nestled high in the Himalayas. Its isolation from the world has cultivated rich traditions, as well as a benevolent monarchy. The dramatic landscapes, from snow-capped peaks and deeply forested slopes to raging, boulder-strewn rivers, sit largely undisturbed. The Amankora program takes you into this ancient kingdom and into the hearts and lands of farmers, weavers, and monks.

Day 1: Arrival

When you arrive in Bhutan, you will be met by your guide, Sang, who will accompany you for the duration of your trip. A short transfer will bring you to Amankora and its spa, set inside a forest of pine. In the afternoon, you will have an opportunity for a quick stroll to the nearby ruins, a visit to some of the valley’s oldest and holiest religious monuments, and a ramble down Paro’s main street. Tonight, you will stay at Amankora Resort in Paro.

Day 2: Tour of Paro

The day starts with a visit to the National Museum, housed in the Ta Dzong (watchtower). Here, an intriguing collection of artifacts provides a wonderful introduction to the rich culture and heritage of the kingdom. Just a short walk downhill lies the dominating Paro Dzong, a fine example of Bhutanese historic architecture. From the Dzong, the tour crosses Nyamai Zampa, a traditional cantilever bridge, and you will be driven to the town temple, built in 1525, to view ancient wall paintings. Activity options in Paro include picturesque picnic spots or a visit to a traditional farmhouse to lunch with the local family. In the afternoon, hike to nearby villages across the Paro Chu (Paro River) to view farmhouses and the villagers’ simple way of life.

Day 3: The heights of Punakha

Make an early departure and take a dramatic drive following the course of the Paro Chu (Paro River) and Wang Chu (Wang River) up to the high mountain pass of Dochu La. Sights on the way include one of Bhutan’s first fortress monasteries, the 17th century Simtokha Dzong, and ancient wall paintings at the Hongtsho Goemba monastery. The journey continues over the 3,040-meter mountain pass where, on a clear day, the Himalayan peaks are clearly visible. The route into Punakha Valley along the Kingdom’s only east-west highway loops above the Punak Chhu before dropping to the valley floor. A short drive onward to the Amankora bridgehead affords access to the lodge with its royal farmhouse set among rice paddy fields and chili plantations. All this will offer a taste of what’s to come tomorrow. Return to Amankora Punakha to rest for the evening.

Day 4: Punakha Valley

The day in Punakha Valley will offer a welcome contrast to yesterday’s stunning auto tour, as you will spend most of the day on foot. These curving banks are best experienced on foot, as they offer a remarkable balance of the practical and artful. You will hike along the banks of the Mo Chu through terraces of rice, chilies, and cabbage. Pass the Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten, a monument made by the four Queens of Bhutan that offers commanding views of the valley floor and the high mountain of Gasa.

Day 5: Gangtey Valley

Today’s journey begins with a stop in the picturesque Wangdi for a visit to the Wangdiphodrang Dzong and Radak Naktshang, the village temple. Continuing on, the highway follows the scenic Dang Chu before climbing through a forest of bamboo and oak. Just before crossing the Pele La pass, a small side road splinters off to the hidden Phobjika Valley. On arrival there you will take lunch at the Gangtey Lodge before visiting the striking out for the Gangtey Goemba, sitting at the head of the valley, and perhaps strolling through quaint Gangte Village.

Day 6: Cranes and crannies

This morning will start with a visit to the Black Neck Crane Center to view the breeding cranes. Here, a resident naturalist will tell you about these otherworldly birds and their habitat. In the afternoon, you will take a walk through the valley and, if you feel up to it, go mountain biking. Return to Goemba for an audience with the Tulkul before heading back to Amankora lodge to soak up the views of the valley at sunset.

Day 7: Thimphu Valley

This morning you will head north up the Thimpu Valley stopping to view Trashi Chhoe Dzong, the seat of Bhutan’s government and Royal Offices. You will then continue past Dechenchoeling, residence of the Queen Mother to Pangri Zampa, and past two 16th century buildings that were once the home of the Shabdrung and now house a monastic astrologer training school. Further up the valley, hike to Cheri Goemba, home to the kingdom’s first monastic body. Then, back in Thimpu proper, your guide will accompany you to browse the local markets and stroll the main street for antiques and textiles from Bhutanese and Tibetan traders.

Day 8: Tigers Nest excursion

An early start takes you back to Paro to start the beautiful and rewarding hike to the Tatshang Goemba (Tigers Nest), perched on a cliff 900 meters above the valley. The Goemba trek is considered the most auspicious pilgrimage in the Kingdom and the views alone make this an inspiring experience.

Day 9: Farewell

As the trip concludes, you will be presented with a little surprise before you head home.

Jane and David, it has been a pleasure to plan your adventure in Bhutan. Do call me if I can be of service.