Israel

Dear Elliot,

You and your family have a clear goal for this trip: to come to understand the holy land that means so much to so many people of your faith. This journey will involve deep personal exploration and revelation, but will not just be inward-looking: you will also be drawn ever-outward as you come face-to-face with remarkable land formations, architecture, historical sites, and political realities.

Day 1: Arrival

You will arrive in Tel Aviv in the afternoon and have the day at leisure to accommodate. You will also meet your guide, Ari, who will accompany you throughout your journey.

Day 2: Jaffa

Before there was Tel Aviv, there was Jaffa and that’s where you will begin your exploration today. Egyptian and Phoenician sailors called this Mediterranean port city home more than 4,000 years ago. The Greeks, Maccabees, Crusaders, and Napoleon all came later. With 130-foot-high Jaffa Hill as its centerpiece, Old Jaffa has always been strategically important because of its commanding views of the coastline.

A number of landmarks are of particular note, including Andromeda’s Rock from Greek mythological fame; Al-Bahr Mosque overlooking the harbor, which Dutch artist Lebrun used as the subject of one of his paintings in 1675; and the house of Simon the Tanner, where the disciple Peter was visited by an angel as told in the Acts of the Apostles. Also of interest is St. Peter’s Church, a Franciscan outpost erected in 1895 on the site of a medieval Crusaders fortress, now the Vatican’s Embassy to Israel; the Ottoman-era Clock Square near the markets; and the ancient port, where the prophet Jonah set out on his journey before being swallowed by a giant fish.

Other highlights include the Jaffa Museum and the maze-like Zodiac alleys that wind their way to the harbor and retired Jaffa Lighthouse.

End the day at Rabin Square—formerly Kings of Israel Square—adjacent to City Hall. This site has special significance since many peace rallies and protests have been held here over the years. Sadly, it’s here that Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin was assassinated on November 4, 1995, after a peace rally. Reflect at Rabin’s memorial at the northeast corner of the square and then view the Holocaust memorial sculpture by Israeli artist Yigal Tumarkin.

Day 3: Zionism to independence

Begin the day at Neve Tzedek. Founded in 1887, it was the first Jewish neighborhood outside Jaffa’s walls. It would later become incorporated into Tel Aviv. While Neve Tzedek faced decades of decline in the 1950s and 1960s, it has undergone a renaissance in recent years and is now one of the trendiest and most expensive districts in Tel Aviv. Here you will find quaint low-rise buildings set amid narrow, winding streets. The neighborhood’s original architecture borrows on Art Nouveau and Bauhaus and you will understand why so many writers and artists called this district home in the early 1900s. Visits to galleries may be arranged and, if you’re interested in contemporary dance, you should call on the Suzanne Dellal Centre for Dance and Theatre.

Next, explore Ahuzat Bayit, the first neighborhood of Tel Aviv and one that was founded by 66 Jewish families—many from Jaffa—in 1909. The homesteaders gathered on Rothschild Avenue for a lottery of land parcels.

The tour continues with a moving experience at the Palmach Museum. Before Israel was an established state, The Palmach was an elite strike force of the Haganah underground military formed by the Jewish community of Palestine. This unusual museum uses a series of movies with high-tech effects to communicate—through the eyes of a young recruit—what it was like to fight for Israeli freedom. This 90-minute presentation, which highlights the values of The Palmach—mutual responsibility, assistance, sacrifice, and contribution to the greater good—is not to be missed.

Finally, spend some time at the Nahum Goldmann Museum of the Jewish Diaspora. The museum traces the history of the Jewish people throughout the ages, from ancient Israel around the world and back to the modern state of Israel.

Day 4: Markets and historical sites

Start the day with some serious shopping at Tel Aviv’s largest outdoor marketplace: the Camel Market. You won’t find camels here but you will find just about everything else from clothes and shoes to cheese and aromatic spices.

Follow Ari onward to Nachalat Binyamin Artists Market, where you will find an ever-changing assortment of handicrafts and artwork. Every single product sold here—from jewelry to dolls to stained glass—is handmade and sold directly by the artist. Live music and street performances round out the experience.

After departing from the artists’ market, it’s fun to drop by the Jaffa Flea Market and see the wares on display there. Treasures like vintage Persian tiles and copper and brass items are mixed in with junk like old clothes and household items. Pick through the assortment to find the gems and then haggle for the best price possible.

Continue the day with a walking (or cycling) tour to view Tel Aviv’s myriad Bauhaus-inspired buildings from the 1930s. Also known as “International” style, these modern buildings were designed with simple, clean lines and bowed windows or balconies accenting the cube foundations. Bauhaus-style buildings are found throughout Tel Aviv and are, in fact, why it’s been dubbed “The White City” and one of Israel’s first UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Finally, head for the Mediterranean, where you will go for a sail as the sun sets.

Day 5: Northern coast

This morning, check out of your Tel Aviv hotel and head to Israel’s beautiful Northern Coast on the Mediterranean. After a 40-minute drive you will arrive at Caesarea Maritima, an ancient city that was the seat of King Herod’s throne some 2,000 years ago. It’s now a national park and the main draws are the Roman-era ruins that include a 3,500-seat theatre (which is still used today for concerts), hippodrome, bathhouses, palaces, mosaics, and aqueduct. This was also the site where St. Paul was imprisoned and sent on his way to Rome, altering the course of Christianity forever.

The next stop, the Clandestine Immigration and Naval Museum, is interesting as it tells the immigration story through period documents and photos as well as with a modern light and sound show.

Next, head to “God’s vineyard” to hike part of the 1,724-foot Mount Carmel. The mountain rises out of the Mediterranean Sea and extends 13 miles to the southeast. The lush mountainside is dotted with trees like olive, oak, pine, and laurel. Vineyards covered these sloping hills in ancient times. The setting is spectacular.

Today’s exploration of Haifa continues at the beautiful 19th-century Stella Maris Carmelite Monastery on the slopes of Mount Carmel. It’s located across from the Old Lighthouse and commands postcard-perfect views of the sea. The church here is known for its rich marble walls and dome paintings that tell the stories of the Old Testament.

At the church’s altar, descend into Elijah’s Cave where legend tells us that this Old Testament prophet once lived and hid from the evil queen, Jezebel.

Day 6: Natural northern wonders

The exquisite Bahai Gardens in the center of Haifa will amaze you this morning. The gardens, comprised of 19 terraces of flowerbeds, groomed hedges, fountains, marble benches, and meandering pathways, extend up the northern slope of Mount Carmel. The tenth terrace is home of the gold-domed Shrine of the Bab, who was one of the two founders of the Bahai faith. These gardens are a work of art and the views from the Mount—the Mediterranean Sea and the German Colony of Haifa—are phenomenal.

From the gardens you will head to Akko (Acre) to look at one of the oldest, continually inhabited cities in the world. Explore this 13th-century capital city of the Crusader Kingdom, both above and underground. Visit the Knights’ castle, dungeons, banquet halls, secret passageways, moats, and walls as well as the famous Akko prison and gallows.

Next, take a steep cable car ride down to the sea for access to the fascinating natural grottoes of Rosh Hanikra. View the cavernous tunnels carved into the white chalk cliffs by pounding turquoise waves.

Day 7: The Galilee

Set off for Tzfat, also known as Safed, in the morning. This medieval mountaintop village set amid a pine forest—at an elevation of 2,953 feet—is the birthplace of Kabbalah (Jewish mysticism). Today it’s a community of artists, mystics, and Hassid. Safed—one of the four holy cities together with Jerusalem, Hebron, and Tiberias—may play an important role in the final redemption. It’s said that the Messiah will come from Safed on his way to Jerusalem. Wander among the galleries and ancient synagogues that dot the alleyways of this quaint, spiritual village.

Next, spend some time at Yardenit on the banks of the Jordan River, which may be the very site where John baptized Jesus. People from all over the world come here to be baptized in these same waters.

Capernaum, a tiny Jewish fishing village from the time of Jesus on the northern shores of the Sea of Galilee, is the next point of interest. You will see the ancient synagogue where Jesus preached as well as the ruins of a Byzantine church that was built over “Peter’s House,” the home of the Apostle. The setting on the water makes it one of the most spiritual places in all Israel.

At Tabgha/Heptapegon on the northwestern shore of the Sea of Galilee, visit the place where it is said that Jesus multiplied loaves of bread and fish to feed the thousands that had gathered to hear him preach. Also tour the Church of the Primacy of St. Peter, the place of Jesus’ third appearance after the resurrection.

Next, discover Tiberias on the Sea of Galilee with detailed facts and stories provided by Ari. This is where the Talmud was codified, where the great rabbis Rambam and Akiva are buried, and the remains of an impressive 5th-century synagogue still stand. The Yigal Alon Promenade—with its restaurants, snack stalls, and souvenir shops—is a popular spot with residents and tourists alike.

The day ends with a hike to a Roman-era fortress at the Mt. Arbel Overlook, 1,279 feet above the valley and lake below. The majestic cliffs will take your breath away.

Day 8: The Golan Heights

Wake up to another full day—this time in the Golan Heights. You will start with a fascinating, behind-the-scenes special access tour of a working tank base in the Golan Heights on the Syrian border. You will meet with a soldier who will show you a tank and tell you what it’s really like to serve in one of the most renowned armies in the world.

Next up is the Oz 77 heritage site, where the decisive Valley of Tears tank battle was fought in 1973. A multimedia presentation explains the complexities of the conflict and how it affected the fate of the Golan Heights and the outcome of the Yom Kippur War. Learn how a handful of teenage Israeli soldiers saved the Jewish State against all odds.

Then head to Golan Heights Volcanic Park, where you will ascend to the Mt. Bental Overlook. At 3,720 feet above sea level, this vantage point offers stunning views of the Golan and Mt. Hermon. The city of Damascus in Syria is just 37 miles to the east. From Mt. Bental you can see the strategic importance of the Golan and explore the IDF army base in the belly of the mountain.

Outdoorsy-types look forward to the day’s next activity: the Nahal Zavitan hike along a stream to freshwater Hexagon Pool at the bottom of the canyon. This perfect swimming hole was nature-made when lava spilled down the canyon walls and slowly cooled hundreds of thousands of years ago.

From this hike you will venture on to Gamla. While the city existed in the Early Bronze Age, the impressive ruins are from the time of the Jewish war against the Romans in the first century, but you will also see hundreds of Neolithic Dolmens (prehistoric tombs made of stones). This nature reserve is also the home to Griffin vultures and other birds of prey, making it a popular destination for bird lovers and nature enthusiasts.

Day 9: Jezreel and The Galilee

Today’s excursion of the Jezreel Valley begins at Bet Shean, a city between the Jezreel and Jordan valleys whose settlement dates back to the Neolithic period. Many peoples lived here over the years, including Romans—evidence of which can be seen in the Roman temple, bathhouses, and amphitheater. Archaeologists have excavated in the area and you can see 15 layers of different cities at the national park just outside town.

Continue on to Tel Megiddo, also known as the Valley of Armageddon, at the southern rim of the Jezreel Valley. In days gone by, it was a bustling city and the stopgap on the main trading route—called the Via Maris—between Egypt and Mesopotamia. According to the Bible, King Solomon built a majestic city here and indeed the Israelite ruins are impressive. Various ancient writings say that this valley will be the scene of the end-time battle of Armageddon.

Next, head to one of the places where Jesus lived and ministered: Nazareth, Israel’s largest Arab city populated by Muslims, Christians, and Jews. This city in northern Israel was Jesus’ hometown. Explore ancient ruins, modern-day shrines and churches, and the thriving Arab market near the Church of the Annunciation.

Day 10: Biblical era Jerusalem

Start the day with a little fun: a Hebrew feast and camel ride into the heart of the Judean Desert, where you will meet Abraham (or, at least, someone reenacting what life was like for Abraham and his family here in the desert). You will don traditional garb from biblical times, partake of dried fruit and tea, and help make pita bread over an open fire—all while listening to stories of days gone by.

Next, visit the Old City for a fact-filled walking tour of the four quarters: Jewish, Muslim, Christian, and Armenian. There’s 3,000 years of history in the Old City and experience the legends, myths, and fables that await you around every corner in a place where dream and reality meet.

Continue on to the City of David, the oldest part of Jerusalem. King David conquered and rebuilt this city, making it the capital of the Kingdom of Israel. The pool of Siloam, mentioned in John 9, is where Jesus cured a blind man with mud from the pool. Then put on some water shoes, grab a flashlight, and trek through Hezekiah’s water tunnel built by the king in order to protect the water source during the Assyrian siege. (The water can reach waist high on this tour.) Climb the ancient stairs built by King Herod during the Second Temple period exiting at the excavations of the Southern Wall of the Temple Mount at the Davidson Center. Explore the ruins of the Temple Mount destroyed by Titus and his Roman Army in 70 AD. Excavation began in 1968 and continued until 1978 and was then resumed in the 1990s.

Day 11: The Second Temple Period in Jerusalem

The day breaks at the Western Wall. People from all over the world make the pilgrimage to this spot—part of the retaining wall of the Second Temple from King Herod’s time—where it’s believed that God’s Spirit resides. Many people write a personal prayer on a small scrap of paper and then place it within a crack in the wall, believing that prayers made here are more powerful than anywhere else in the world.

Next, explore the Temple Mount and realize why Jerusalem has become a center for the three monotheistic faiths. Go back in time to Solomon’s Temple, Jesus’ turning over the tables of the moneychangers, and Mohamed’s night journey into Heaven where he met Moses, Elijah, and Allah himself.

Continue with a walking tour of the Western Wall Tunnels in the Jewish Quarter. This was the main street in Second Temple Period Jerusalem—the time of Jesus. Archaeologists dug down to the original street level, thought to be a marketplace, and unearthed a labyrinth of tunnels, arches, and passageways that remained untouched for centuries. The tunnels will help you understand how the Western Wall was constructed and what other buildings may have been standing during King Herod’s time. More importantly, the massive stones of the wall, each with its perfectly carved border, are testimony to the physical grandeur of the ancient Jewish world. Over the centuries, this enduring fragment of the Temple complex has come to symbolize the indestructible attachment of the Jewish People to the land of Israel.

End the day with some haggling and souvenir shopping at the Arab Souk, the marketplace spanning the Christian and Muslim Quarters of Old City. Don’t miss the traditional food stalls.

Day 12: From the Nativity to the Passion

Today’s poignant tour visits some of the places where Jesus lived and preached during his life. Start the day in the ancient city of Bethlehem (only a five-mile drive from your Jerusalem hotel), where King David was born and raised and where Jesus was born fleeing the wrath of King Herod. Also take time to tour the Security Fence between Israel and the Palestinian Authority and discuss this new reality as it is happening and making headlines today.

Next, stop at Mount Zion for King David’s Tomb and the Upper Room, part of the Cenacle where the Last Supper took place. Then visit Dormition Abbey where Mary falls into her eternal sleep. Move on to the Palace of the High Priest Caphais and the Galicantu Church where Jesus was imprisoned, tried by the High Priest, and turned over to the Romans for execution. It is here where Peter denies Jesus three times before the rooster crows.

Continue to Mount of Olives, with its spectacular view of Jerusalem. Visit the Garden of Gethsemane, where Jesus and his disciples spent their last night together during the Passover pilgrimage and where Judas betrays Jesus with a kiss. It’s here—on the slopes that have been a Jewish cemetery for more than 3,000 years—that Jesus ascended into Heaven 40 days after His resurrection.

Now, walk the Via Dolorosa in the steps of Jesus as he carried the cross to his crucifixion. This portion of the street features the fourteen Stations of the Cross and winds from Antonia Fortress west ending inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

Carry on to the Garden Tomb beyond the Damascus Gate and just outside city walls. Some say that this is the burial and resurrections site of Jesus, and it certainly has the feel of the story at hand.

Day 13: Modern Jerusalem

The treasures of the Israel Museum are on this morning’s agenda. The facility’s commendable collection includes an antiquities gallery, the famous Dead Sea Scrolls, modern art, reconstructed synagogues from around the world, and the finest collection of rare Judaica that exists anywhere. A highlight is a tour of the Shrine of the Book, which houses the Dead Sea Scrolls. The scrolls, discovered in caves in Qumran between 1947 and 1956, are the earliest known surviving copies of the Hebrew Bible. An intriguing white dome structure with a reflecting pool surrounding it now houses these important ancient scrolls.

Many sights in Israel illicit strong emotional responses and you will experience that at Yad Vashem, the center for Holocaust research and education. It’s here that the lives of six million Jews, murdered during World War II, are commemorated.

Next is a fascinating tour of the Knesset, which is the legislative branch of government in Israel. The Knesset elects the president and prime minister, approves the cabinet, passes laws, and much more.

Finally, visit the Mahaneh Yehudah Market. “The Shuk” open-air market—packed with hundreds of vendors selling fresh fruit and vegetables, baked goods, fish and meat, cheese, and housewares—is popular with residents who descend on the market in preparation for Shabbat.

Day 14: Variety in Jerusalem

Jerusalem is incredibly diverse and this morning you will visit one of the largest ultra-Orthodox communities in the city in the tightknit Meah Shearim neighborhood. This was the second settlement built outside the walls of Old City.

Continue to the 2,000-year-old citadel near the Jaffa Gate entrance to Old City. Today this structure is the Tower of David Museum that archives Jerusalem’s history through the ages.

Next visit Ammunition Hill, the site of an intense battle during the Six Day War between the Jordanians, who held the hill, and the Israelis. The hill is now a national memorial and museum and the symbol of the liberation and reunification of Jerusalem. Note the 182 olive trees that were planted for the 182 soldiers who died here during the war.

Day 15: The Judean lowlands

Start your day with a drive to the strategic hilltop of Latrun in the Ayalon Valley. The vantage point is perfect for keeping tabs on the road to Jerusalem. Visit the Latrun Armored Corps Museum, the largest tank museum in the world. More than 200 tanks are on exhibition. Many were captured by Israel from its enemies during its various wars. Some date back to World War I, but most took part in the War of Independence (1948) and 1967’s Six Day War. A Trappist Monastery is also located here and it’s worth a look at its production of wine.

The next stop on today’s tour brings you a few miles northwest of Jerusalem to Emmaus, where Jesus is said to have appeared after His resurrection. You will enjoy the beautiful monastery as well as Byzantine and Second Temple-period ruins.

If you enjoyed the Western Wall Tunnels, you will love Beit Guvrin amid the rolling hills of the Judean Lowlands. This former Edomite stronghold is fascinating because it consists of a network of hundreds of manmade caves and passageways. The caves were used for industry, water cisterns, burial chambers, and storerooms. The Hellenistic period signaled Beit Guvrin’s zenith. Today it’s part of an expansive national park. You will take part in an active archaeological dig for half the day and explore the underground ruins of excavated and unexcavated caves during this adventure.

Some stories endure throughout the centuries and so it is with David and Goliath. Take your time touring Elah Valley, the place where David slew his nemesis near where the Israelites were encamped. View this ancient battle site that remains in pristine condition.

Day 16: Judean desert

The morning begins with an overland trip skirting the shores of the Dead Sea from Jerusalem to Masada, King Herod’s ancient mountaintop fortress. This UNESCO World Heritage site sits atop a rock plateau with breathtaking panoramic views of the Dead Sea and Judean Desert below. You will ascend to the top via cable car, or if you prefer, hike up the snake path before dawn to the place that has become the very symbol of bravery and self-sacrifice. It was here in 73 CE that Jewish fighters held Roman soldiers at bay for years before finally choosing death rather than slavery on the eve of the Roman Army’s conquest.

Next, explore Ein Gedi Oasis. Nestled between two streams and buffeted by the desert, this is the largest and most important oasis in Israel. Choose between an easy nature walk or a vigorous hike—both wind through lush vegetation to several spectacular waterfalls and swimming holes. This nature reserve is a sanctuary for many birds as well as the Nubian ibex, a long-horned desert-dwelling species of goat. A favorite among tourists, it is considered one of the most beautiful spots in Israel.

In the afternoon, visit the Dead Sea, the lowest point in the world. At about 400 meters below sea level, this body of water—which is rumored to have healing powers—is one of the world’s richest sources of minerals. Time spent swimming and floating in the “Salt Sea” is a true highlight.

The day’s adventures continue at Qumran National Park (time permitting). Scholars believe that the Essenes, a radical monastic sect devoted to austerity, originally inhabited Qumran. They left behind the oldest existing copies of many parts of Scripture. The Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered here in 1947.

The day concludes with a treat for aviation buffs: a stop at the Israeli Air Force Museum at Hatzerim Air Force Base. Guided tours show off 140 aircraft as well as anti aircraft missile launchers and more.

Day 17: Negev Desert

This morning’s focus is on Ramon Crater in the Negev Desert within Israel’s largest national park, the Ramon Nature Reserve. Ramon Crater isn’t a crater at all. Rather, it’s a “makhtesh,” a type of geological landform unique to this area. Take an exhilarating 4×4 jeep tour into the depths of the crater and you will go 250 million years back in time. Israelis consider this their own “Grand Canyon.”

The natural beauty of the desert continues as you head to Ein Avdat. This canyon was carved out over the millennia by roaring waters and trickling streams. Mesmerizing natural springs and deep pools of water are punctuated by dazzling waterfalls. This spot is otherworldly and archaeologists believe that Neanderthals lived here thousands of years ago.

In the afternoon take a walking tour of the late David Ben-Gurion’s desert home, now a museum, at Kibbutz Sede Boker. Ben-Gurion was the highly respected first Prime Minister of Israel and his astute leadership and philosophy did much to shape the future of the nation.

Day 18: Petra

Today, take a day trip to Jordan to experience one of the Wonders of the World: Petra. Third century Nabataeans sculpted this amazing city from the red/pink stone mountains in the area.

Day 19: Departure

After nearly twenty days in this beautiful country, you will have come to understand why it is a holy land to so many. Bid it goodbye as you fly for home, blessed with a deeper understanding of a place that many would consider one of the most important and sacred in the world.

Elliot, it has been my pleasure to plan this journey for you and your family. Please do not hesitate to reach out to me at any point, should the need arise.