Colombia

For Fernanda’s family

February 2015.

South America’s northern tip

Dear Fernanda,

I’m thrilled to be able to share one of the world’s hidden treasures with you. A good trip is a balance between pure enjoyment and learning, relaxation and movement, manmade creations and natural beauty. Colombia possesses all of these aspects and more—just as you’re tired of exploring, a coffee tasting will jolt you back into adventure mode. Step out of a museum and into a square to marvel at architecture from centuries ago, the likes of which isn’t available anywhere else. Cap it all off on one of the most majestic beaches you’ve ever witnessed. Untouched by mass tourism, the spirit of this singular country will captivate you from the first instant. You’ve requested a long trip, and I have given you a plan that assures it never becomes monotonous. Soak it all in—it’s a rare treat to spend time somewhere so diverse and authentic.

Day 1: City Tour of Bogotá

After your day of travel and restful night, you will get an early start on soaking in the extensive amount of history and art available in the area. In the morning, you will visit the center known as La Candelaria, an antiquated barrio. Feast your eyes on the stately homes, large Spanish colonial buildings equipped with iron windows, thick wooden doors, balconies and hidden gardens. You will want to sit and marvel at the nearby Plaza de Bolivar, the former marketplace and bullring featuring a statue of the great liberator Simon Bolivar. Look for the cathedral on the eastern side of the plaza, constructed on the remains of Bogotá’s first church, and venture inside to see the collection of religious artifacts, textiles and artwork spanning four full centuries. Beside the cathedral is the equally astonishing Capilla del Sagrario, a gem of religious architecture with an unparalleled sense of space housing valuable pieces of colonial religious art by Gregorio Vasquez de Arce y Ceballos and acting as the congressional meeting place. The busts of former presidents, including General Tomás Cipriano Mosquera, and Rafael Núñez, the composer of the Colombian national anthem, will give you a sense of the region’s history.

Your visit continues with the Museo Botero, a colonial house filled with works of art including pieces by Picasso, Renoir, Dalí Matisse, Monet and Giacometti. As these masterpieces carry you away, make sure you save some energy for the Museo del Oro, a permanent exhibition of some 32,000 pieces of gold, 20,000 stones, ceramics and textiles all precious to the Quimbaya, Calima, Tayrona, Sinu, Muisca, Tolima, Tumaco and Magdalena cultures. One of the most important museums of its type, this space provides a truly unique exploration of the precious objects valued so deeply here.

Next, you will venture into the Santuario de Monserrate, a symbol of Bogotá. Ride the cable car up 500 meters above Bogotá, looking out at the incredible panorama of the city and the Andes Mountains. At the top, you will have lunch at San Isidro Restaurant, followed by a coffee tasting session at Hacienda San Alberto. Along with your much-needed energy jolt, you will enjoy a lesson in coffee history, regions, varieties, and methods of preparation.

In the evening, dine at El Cielo Restaurant for a modern yet authentic taste of Columbian cuisine. Named one of the 50 best restaurants in Latin America by to William Reed Business Media, El Cielo uses scientific principles to create experiences that stimulate the senses and arouse emotions, and is the perfect place to reflect on your illuminating day fully of history and culture.

Day 2: Cartagena

You will arrive in Cartagena by late afternoon, just in time for a magical tour of the walled city. Take a step back in time and enjoy the sights from your own horse-drawn carriage. With the sound of hooves on the paved colonial streets, the refreshing breeze, and the nighttime hues painting the extraordinary scenery, you will feel as if you’re part of a film you’ve never seen before. Take in the different plazas and pass by the elegant colonial houses with balconies filled with tumbling bougainvillea flowers. Colombians and foreigners alike will begin to fill the streets, captivated by the energy of the night.

Stop for a seafood dinner at Club de Pesca Restaurant, one of the most traditional and famous spots in the city thanks to its location on the Fort San Sebastian De Pastelillo. As your private car takes you back to the hotel, you will revel in the sense of an experience different from anything you’ve done before.

Day 3: The Local Markets of Cartagena

In the morning, you will be met by Esteban, a local chef and market enthusiast. He’ll take you to La Plaza de Mercado de Bazurto, located in the barrio of Pie de La Popa and home to every fresh product available in the Caribbean region. You will feel like a local as you try the exotic fruits and become welcomed into the barrio. In the market, choose your produce available and continue to the beaches of Manzanillo de Mar, just 15 minutes outside of Cartagena. There, you will find a spectacular house with sea views with a large open kitchen set up for for a cookery class. After learning some local recipes, you will enjoy a traditional dance show organized by the children from the area. Before returning to your hotel, take a walk on the beach and a dip in the sea as you marvel at the otherworldly sunset.

Day 4: Cartagena Panoramic City Tour and Boat Trip

There’s no better way to start your final day than with a panoramic view of the city from the Monasterio and Iglesia de la Popa, famous for resembling the stern of a galleon. From there, continue to the San Felipe Fortress, built on San Lázaro Hill to defend the city from pirate attacks. As you walk around the fortress and learn about how the castle was constructed, the engineering feats, the tunnels, underground galleries and passageways, you will feel transported to a completely different moment in time. Move on to the Ciudad Vieja (Old City) to visit the Convert and Church of the San Pedro Claver compound and the handicrafts zone of the Bovedas, a collection of archways built into the city wall of Cartagena that now acts as an artisan center. Here, you will have a chance to truly appreciate local handcrafts.

In the evening, you will be taken on a boat trip on the Cartagena Bay, with wine and snacks on board. Take in the view of the city’s lights from the sea as you eat a delicious meal and reflect on the vast amount of unique, even life-altering experiences you’ve just had.

Fernanda, it’s given me a true sense of pleasure to create this guide for you. I hope you love your time in Colombia. Feel free to reach out to me with any questions or concerns.