BY Lisa Lindblad
August 30, 2011
Last night, dining at Tertulia, I watched Chef Seamus Mullen stoking his fire, winding up and down the grill to adjust sear and temperature, and serving up beautiful steaks that had been grilled in the coals. This is great cooking and it reminds me of Chef Francis Mallmann’s infernillo cooking so beautifully illustrated in his now classic grilling book, 7 Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way.
Tertulia, a word that is used in Northern Spain to describe a gathering of friends with great conversation, food and drink perfectly describes this friendly spot on New York’s 6th Avenue at Washington Place. With a lively bar and communal tables along with the usual private tables, it is a friendly newcomer that offers really delicious Northern Spanish fare of tapas, oven-grilled plates and family dishes composed of fresh and delicious ingredients. The steak is now famous; but the tosta topped with black and white anchovies was yummy (tosta matrimonio) as was the tortilla espanola of egg, potato, onion and olive oil. These were just two of the dishes we shared as we grazed through the menu.
And, sitting with a ringside seat to Chef Mullen, one of the great pleasures of the evening was watching his fluid, graceful winding up and down of the grill with his mitted hand and serving up fare that made the house happy.