We finally succeeded in getting a table at Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster Harlem last night, a venue evocative of 1920’s Harlem while setting a thrilling new tone for a neighborhood in search of rebirth.  Harlem is close to my heart.  I grew up in East Harlem, attended Columbia University which sits to the west of Harlem and, as my attachment to Africa grew over the years, I have shopped up and down 125th street for everything from spices to fabrics.  I have watched community development programs slowly take back the streets and visionary families gut and restore gracious townhouses.  There is still hit and miss in Harlem but the energy is great and, more importantly, it is unique in this city and to this city.

And Red Rooster Harlem is the perfect stage for this vibrancy, this style that is so quintessentially Harlem, so quintessentially African, so quintessentially New York.  The round bar in Red Rooster’s front room is packed to the gills with a diversity of color, dress and age I have not seen elsewhere in New York.  Dapper men out of a Malik Sidibe portrait; sassy, sexy women out of a Billie Holliday picture; young hip hop artist with gathered braids; museum curator,  gray afro swept up in a satin ribbon.  Asians and Whites mix in with the group, fewer at the bar which is probably more local, and more prominently in the dining room behind this thrumming entryway.

Tuesday night was Latin night and the music was not so loud that they couldn’t talk but loud enough to make them dance in the aisles while waiting for a table.

Red Rooster Harlem is a happy place.  It reminds me of why I love this city so much. Defining characteristics of  established neighborhoods are homogeneity – economic, social, or ethnic.   Harlem in transition celebrates diversity and all of the creativity and energy diversity generates.

Red Rooster gives back to its neighborhood in transition substance as well as style, drawing its produce from local sources, providing cooking classes and food education to the community, and anchoring it with a thriving business.  Judging from last night’s packed house – and every night’s packed house – Harlem’s rebirth looks more and more secure.

And, yes, the food was delicious.  Dirty rice and shrimp, country ham, chicken, steak and meatballs all received rave reviews from our table.  The sweet potato doughnuts that finished our evening off were as down home as the place in which we found ourselves.

Open for brunch, lunch and dinner and, soon, for breakfast as well.  Reservations are difficult to obtain so book well in advance.  And, check out Red Rooster’s great website which will also give you the schedule of artist appearances and musical programs such as Sunday Night Jazz and Gospel Sunday Brunch.

Can it get any better anywhere in the city?

http://redroosterharlem.com/