How, after years of eating my national food, the hamburger, could I possibly find the quintessential, most delicious burger I have ever put in my mouth in the hands of a Frenchman? Daniel Boulud’s new restaurant in New York’s Bowery is a “lowdown downtown place where the French brasserie meets American tavern. Sausages, burgers and towering shellfish platters sit alongside seasonal Lyonnais-inspired cooking. A partially open kitchen, a cafe and its more fully fledged restaurant are sort of industrial, sort of classic brasserie with menus written on the wall amongst some really thought provoking — and some just plain funny – quotations on food and the good life. It’s just great and so yummy. Love it…love it.