Burma

For Sophie

May 2009.

Buddhism and bamboo

Dear Sophie,

Burma is a beautiful and largely undiscovered land, beckoning adventurers like yourself who long for a spiritual and educational experience off the beaten path. I have crafted a journey that will allow you to explore this unknown world, expanding your horizons—and your self-understanding—as you visit temples, markets, spas, and take in the breathtaking landscape.

Day 1: Arrival

Upon arrival, you will be met by your guide, Kyaw, a devout Buddhist with an understanding of his country and its complicated history that visitors—and many locals—do not have access to.

Day 2: Yangon

Your guide will meet you at the hotel this morning for a full day exploring Yangon.

The former capital of Burma, Yangon has the largest number of colonial buildings in Southeast Asia. Once the political and commercial center of British Burma, the colonial buildings throughout the city are rundown and largely vacant, but timelessly beautiful.

Begin your day at Scott’s Market, a major bazaar dominated by antiques, Burmese handicrafts and jewelry shops, art galleries, and clothing stores. Be sure to visit the upper levels of the market for a more “local” experience.

With the majority of the country practicing Theravada Buddhism, Burma has the largest proportion of monks in its population. Of all the countries in the world, Burma spends the largest proportion of its income on the Buddhist religion.

You will visit Yangon’s massive 230-foot reclining Buddha this afternoon, built in the early 1900’s. As the sun begins to set, you will head to Shwedagon Pagoda, the oldest historical pagoda in the world. Dominating the skyline of Yangon, Shwedagon is the most sacred pagoda for the Burmese, gilded entirely with gold leaf. The golden pagoda against clear blue skies and flickering sunset is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful things you will witness.

We will provide you with local suggestions for dinner this evening. Burmese cuisine includes a rich variety of dishes influenced by neighboring China, Thailand and India. Despite these outside influences, dishes such as the fermented tealeaf salad (Burma is one of the few countries where tea is both eaten and drunk) are entirely unique to Burma.

Rest tonight at The Strand, one of the most famous hotels in Southeast Asia. It opened in 1901 and became one of the most luxurious hotels of the British Empire with teak and marble floors, mahogany furniture and period fixtures.

Day 3: Bagan

Arrive at the ancient capital of Bagan this morning. As capital of the Kingdom of Pagan between the 9th and 13th centuries, over 10,000 Buddhist temples, pagodas and monasteries were constructed on the Bagan plains, an area of 40 square miles. Today over 2,000 temples and pagodas remain, each different from the next—some dark and simple, others adorned with colorful images of the Buddha from top to bottom. You will have the rare ability to walk freely in and out of these ancient temples without any lines or regulations– a privilege that will not last for much longer as more tourists are drawn to Burma.

Spend the remainder of the afternoon at the hotel, Bagan Aureum Palace, relaxing by the pool and enjoying the spa.

Day 4: Markets and more

This morning you will visit the local market in a small village outside of Bagan. A magically fertile country, Burma produces enough food to feed its entire population, yet the absence of purchasing power leaves many people hungry. The market serves as a meeting place for local women, selling everything from peanuts and tobacco, to mangosteens and leafy greens of all kinds.

The remainder of the day will be spent visiting the major sites of Bagan. Stops will include the gilded Shyouzigon Pagoda, the 11th century Ananda Temple, and the sandstone Nan Paya temple.

This evening, Kyaw will take you to the top of a small temple (closed to the public) to watch the sunset over the Bagan plains. The colors and serenity is pure magic.

Day 5: Mandalay

Depart early this morning by private boat to Mandalay on the Irrawaddy River. The river flows throughout Burma and has been the country’s largest and most important commercial waterway for centuries. Not only has the river been vital to the Burmese for transportation purposes, but it also holds incredible spiritual power as numerous spirits are said to live along the river. The day will be at your leisure to explore before resting at the Rupar Mandalay Resort.

Day 6: Pagodas

As the cultural and religious center of Buddhism, Mandalay is home to over 700 pagodas and several important monasteries.

Your first stop will be outside of the city in the village of Ava, where bamboo houses are surrounded by lush farmland. Here you will visit the Bagaryar wooden monastery, where only one monk resides today due to worn conditions. Continue on to the township of Amarapura and the U Bein Bridge, the longest teakwood bridge in the world. The bridge was built by the mayor, U Bein, in the mid 19th century, to salvage unwanted teak columns during the move of the capital to Amarapura.

Visit a weaving factory this afternoon for colorful and intricately designed longyis, scarves, bags and tops.

If the skies are clear, arrive at Mandalay Hill for fabulous views of the city and surrounding countryside. Mandalay Hill has been a major pilgrimage site for Buddhists for centuries.

Day 7: Lake Inle

Depart Mandalay this morning to Heho, from where you will be transferred to Lake Inle. A short boat ride brings you to your hotel, nestled in a quiet cove on the lake.

Inle is a relatively small lake, yet home to a number of species of fish that are found nowhere else in the world. With the deepest point between 12-17 feet (depending on the season), locals build homes on bamboo stilts over the lake, and are able to cultivate large gardens that float on the surface of the water. Anchored by bamboo, the gardens rise and fall with changes in water level, making them incredibly fertile.

By boat, explore several of the over-water villages and their floating gardens this afternoon. You will pass locals tending to their gardens from small wooden canoes, farmers from the hills herding their cattle across the lake after a day’s work, and families bathing in the water– so much life revolves around a body of water.

Enjoy dinner at the Princess Hotel this evening, where almost everything on the menu is local to the Lake Inle area. In fact, many of the vegetables even come from the onsite garden, where you can stroll after your meal.

Day 8: Pa-O settlement

Travel across the lake by boat today to a Pa-O settlement, which has been closed off to tourists until recently. A small ethnic group, the traditions and customs of the Pa-O are little known and gradually disappearing. The Pa-O believe that they are the descendants of a dragon, which is reflected in their traditions and style of dress.

Walk through a local village before visiting a rice wine factory (despite being devout Buddhists, the Pa-O do drink rice wine) where you can sample the incredibly potent drink.

En route back to the hotel, visit a local potter at work and a sprawling weaving factory. Inle Lake is well known for its weaving industry, and you will find that much of the clothing and accessories on the lake are much different than those of Mandalay.

Relax at the hotel later this afternoon. You may wish for us to book a treatment or arrange a meeting with the local medicine man at the beautiful spa on the property.

Day 9: Local market

Begin your day with a visit to the local market on the lake this morning, where you will find fresh produce grown around the lake in addition to locally made jewelry, textiles, and handicrafts. Behind the market is the beautiful Nuang Oak Monastery, a quiet respite from the busy market.

Before returning to the hotel, you may also wish to visit the Ngapchechaung Monastery, famed for the old lacquered images of Buddha in addition to the monastery cats that have been trained to jump through hoops. Having grown more acclimated to this otherworldly and spiritual place, you might find yourself less surprised than you would have been a week ago at such a unique sight.

This afternoon, you have the option to hike up to a small temple and monastery with vast views of the lake, or to simply relax at the hotel and enjoy your final night in Burma, depending on your mood of the day.

Day 10: Yangon

Today, enjoy a traditional Burmese lunch with Kyaw’s family before you depart for home this evening.

Sophie, it has been my pleasure to plan this itinerary for you. Please feel free to contact me at any time, should the need arise.