Far away from the hung election in Great Britain, another election is taking place. Hand-painted signs, flags and banners fly from trees and cars and stretch long across the plaster and painted facades of these single story, flat-roofed houses of Garzon. We, in Garzon, are electing a mayor who will mind our issues along with those of Jose Ignacio and Punta del Este. As we are the small fry in this political scenario, the emotions run high when Garzon’s 240 inhabitants discuss who will stand tall for our interests.
We all loved Adrian, our most recent mayor who lately stepped down, and would have loved to have him continue on. All of 29, Adrian had decided that he did not want to mix his life with politics and has settled on a corner of his family’s farm where he is building a house and digging a pond. Much nicer life indeed. Many have stepped in to fill Adrian’s shoes and take on the added responsibilities of our larger coastal cities. Martin, the proprietor of La Huella, the incredibly fun Jose Ignacio seaside restaurant, is running. We are partial to him.
I asked my gaucho neighbor, Juan Carlos, who was on his way to vote, what he felt some of the pressing issues in town were. Spiffed up with crisp shirt and bombachas and sipping his mate, he said, “It’s the roads in town. They are dangerous because look at the grass! It grows so far into the road that it leaves little room for the cars to pass.”
“Hmm,” I thought looking out at Road #1 on which I live. Our dirt roads are in good condition – whether because they are well maintained or because we have only a handful of cars passing daily – and the grass has indeed encroached some. “That’s an issue, ” I agreed with Juan Carlos, “But I’m glad that is as bad as it gets.”
Life here is delightfully simple.
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Francis Mallmann's Restaurant Garzon is arguably Uruguay's best restaurant and one of the finest in all of South America. But what is less well known is that it is also one of the world's most charming inns - an eatery (albeit a fine one) with a few rooms attached. 5 to be exact, each of which makes you want to settle in and not move for a while.
Francis is one talented chef to be sure but perhaps, again, what is less well known is what an extraordinary eye he has. He makes no bones about being a lover of beauty, but here is someone who creates it in so many different ways. Hotel and Restaurant Garzon in the pueblo pays homage to the fires that create great, passionate food, but it also celebrates Mallmann's quiet, subtle side. His ability to create warmth, intimacy and fantasy in his interiors is unique. And now the inn has had a makeover that is akin to the best facelift possible. Its five rooms and public space have been freshened with newly painted furniture and reconfigured to maximize space, light and privacy. Remarkably, however, none of the soul has leached out and, if anything, I would say that there is a renewed sparkle to the gem.
So much so that, maybe after dinner tonight, I might just bunk in and move no more.
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A Restaurant That Is Also An Inn
