I often go on line to read about a new restaurant I am going to dine at, but, this time, I came in cold. The atmosphere was lively (read loud), very busy, and happy (read cozy). We were given a tiny table and, after extremely attentive service (read slightly pressing) we turned to our menus. We were advised to share plates; Amanda pointed out that she was vegetarian and so, of the 8 or so dishes we ordered, 7 of them had no meat.
And they were all incredibly delicious.
ricotta dumplings with currants
roasted beets with sweet and sour cherries
heirloom tomatoes with fresh cheese and seaweed
corn soup
and, for me, the outstanding dish was the chicken and eggs with roasted potatoes..and that chicken, cooked sous vide, was one of the most delicious I have tasted..I dream of it still.
When I returned home and went to read about ACME, I saw that the Executive Chef, Mads Refslund, had opened NOMA with Redzepe. The penny dropped, and I realized why the tubers and vegetables were so creatively presented and delicious to eat.
I can’t wait to go back for a whole new experience, making sure, of course, that the chicken and eggs will be part of any meal I have.
Metta, Norberto Piattoni's Fort Green neighborhood restaurant[/caption]
Francis Mallmann, the revered Argentinian chef made famous by his many restaurants around the world, a couple of books on his cooking style and a hit television series, Chef's Table, has ensured his legacy with a diaspora of chef proteges, two of whom have rolled up in New York. Norberto, better known to his friends as Negro, recently opened Metta, a neighborhood restaurant located on a quiet corner two blocks from the Fort Greene farmers market in Brooklyn. It offers sustainably sourced, vegetable-forward dishes all cooked in a custom designed, open-fire kitchen, using South American asado techniques, utilizing all aspects of the fire (smoke, flame, ash and embers) to create layers of flavor in dishes. Packed with happy diners the night I went, it is relaxed, delicious, interesting and fun.
[caption id="attachment_8248" align="alignnone" width="500"]
Flora Bar, Ignacio Mattos' third opening in New York[/caption]
Ignacio Mattos was born in Uruguay and learned to cook in the kitchens of Mallman and Slow Food legend, Alice Waters. His two other restaurants in New York, Estela, with its bold, Mediterranean-inspired cooking, and Altro Paradiso, with its Italian cuisine, are favorites of mine. Now, Ignacio has come with his team to the Met Brauer on 76th and Madison, offering small bites as well as main dishes in a comfortable setting either indoors or on the open terrace. Service is superb, wines delicious and the food captivating. The space, in my opinion, could do with some tlc - easily accomplished. If you can serve food like that, a bit of flower planting and decorating should come easy.
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