BY Lisa Lindblad
March 28, 2015
It has been many years since I was last in Copenhagen and so I decided to come back for a long weekend with my son, Justin. I opted for the non-stop on SAS which was a mere 7h15m from New York but with a 6:30PM departure that had us arriving at 7:15AM – not ideal for a decent night’s sleep. So, a bit loopy, we taxied in from the airport to the Hotel d’Angleterre, the lovely grande dame of hotels that has had a costly and very successful facelift.
With 90 gracious, spacious rooms clothed in fabrics that meander the gray, beige and lavender spectrum, we settled in to our suite with great relief and delight. Dropping our luggage, we headed out at 9:30 for the first of the canal boat trips offer an excellent overview of the city’s layout and its maritime history.
The time to be in Copenhagen is spring, summer and fall, I imagine, when the water sparkles and the ochre painted houses gleam in the sun. Today was cold and became grayer as the day progressed, but young and old seemed unperturbed behind their upright bicycle handles as they pressed on into the wind, oftentimes pushing carts filled with a child or two.
Our 9-course tasting dinner was at AMASS, American Chef Matt Orlando’s wonderfully innovative restaurant outside of the city center at the water’s edge. Orlando was a protege of Rene Redzepi, owner and illustrious chef of NOMA, voted the world’s best restaurant, and he has worked at both Per Se and the Fat Duck to earn his stripes. Tall, calm, open and friendly, he has an earnest desire to produce delicious, innovative food in a conscious, sustainable manner and, to that end, they have their own herb garden on the premises and are engaged in interesting recycling efforts. The restaurant, a large, open warehouse- converted space, has a wonderfully happy vibe — the tables are wide apart, the chef-amassed playlist is upbeat (and peppered with hip-hop) and the food is presented at times by knowledgeable servers and at times by the chefs and the chef/owner himself. We had a most wonderful evening seated at the kitchen window where we watched the chefs deftly prepare the tasting menu bites while stopping, from time to time, to chat and explain their moves.